A gal meets her fella in the islands! They fall in love! He moves Statesside! They open a restaurant! The American Dream! A fairy tale! Tropical locations! It's got it all, I tell ya!"
"I like it kid. Where do we shoot this epic?"
"At a strip mall in West Mifflin."
Long pause.
"Back up kid. Gimme that story again."
For the record: Sixteen years ago, a lass named Sharon goes on a Caribbean vacation in Barbados with some girlfriends and meets an island native, Terry.
Because men the world over are genetically incapable of resisting the charms of Pittsburgh girls, a long-distance courtship ensues and a little more than a year later, Terry and Sharon Ward were married.
Terry Ward has cooking in his DNA -- his family owned a restaurant on the equatorial haven. But, after marriage and a move to the United States, he continued his trade as a carpenter.
Sharon had her successful career as a chemist.
They had talked of opening a place together, serving authentic Caribbean cuisine, but the timing wasn't right, until ...
Fast forward to 2008.
The Great Recession strikes.
Sharon takes a voluntary severance from her company, which was making cutbacks.
Although the business climate is brutal, Sharon and Terry see their chance to take a big leap, and in October of last year, they open Calypso Caribbean Grill in the Kennywood Shops in West Mifflin.
When you think tropical paradise, naturally, you think Mon Valley, right mon? Not exactly.
But the cozy Calypso warms up an otherwise antiseptic shopping center, with its pastel painted walls, seashell decorations, and photographs of the pristine waters, glimmering white sand beaches and almost impossibly azure skies of Terry's homeland.
"That's great, kid, but how's the food?"
Quite good. Authentic.
A tapestry of sweet and spicy smells greet you upon entering the place.
The recipes of traditional Caribbean dishes are from Terry's family, many of them penned in the handwriting of his mother.
Munch tried an oxtail stew over a bed of wild rice with a side of fried plantains ($11.95). The cuts of oxtail were fatty (as they're supposed to be) and flavorful with a sauce that was both sweet but with just enough warming heat for a chilly December afternoon. The plantains were a sweet and savory treat with a starchy consistency.
Munch took out a jerk chicken sandwich with a side of lamb stew ($5.95) for dinner later.
The lamb stew seasonings were similarly delicious as the oxtail stew, but, in Munch's opinion, better, owing to a tastier selection of meat.
The jerk chicken was well-prepared and with a nice bite.
Trusty sidekick, the Blonde Barkeep Bud of Munch had the curry chicken over rice, with a side of macaroni and cheese. She reports that the chicken was tender, with a bit of spice, but not overpowering -- a well-balanced dish -- although the mac and cheese left a bit to be desired.
A host of other island staples such as curry goat, Roti and Bajan vegetables are also on the menu ($4.99-$9.95).
"So whaddya think sir? A Hollywood story. With a little 'Burgh and Bajan twist. Call it 'Eat, Pray, Love, n'at.' I smell Oscar!"
"Sorry kid. Sounds like a great place. But we're only doing 3-D vampire pictures these days. Tell 'em to hire on Nosferatu as a line cook and you got something."
Pittsburgh Post Gazette
Thursday, December 16, 2010
